فردوس هنر

فردوس هنر

واکاوی پوشاک جنگاوران در نقاشی شیرویه و سرهنگ سربینه حمام مهدی‌قلی‌بیگ مشهد

نوع مقاله : مقاله پژوهشی

نویسندگان
1 مربی/ گروه هنر/ دانشگاه ملی مهارت تهران/ ایران
2 کارشناس/ هنر/ دانشگاه ملی مهارت تهران/ ایران
3 هنر/ دانشگاه ملی کهارت تهران/ ایران
چکیده
چکیده:
بیان مسئله:در سیر شکل‌گیری حکومت‌ها، همواره طبقه جنگاور، یکی از ستون‌های مهم کشورداریبرشمرده می‌شود. در هر دوره‌ای با توجه به نوع بینش سیاسی و فرهنگ پوشش مردمان و همچنین شیوه نبردها، نوعی از پوشش نبرد برای جنگاوران شکل می‌گیرد و به‌عنوان یک نماد بصری در جهت شناسایی طبقه مزبور شناخته می‌شود؛ ازآنجاکه جنگاوران با رشادت‌های خودقهرمانان ملی می‌باشندموردتوجه هنرمندان برای خلق آثار هنری قرار می‌گیرند. هنر نقاشی قهوه‌خانه‌اینیز که در دوره مشروطه و در جهت تغییر دیدگاه عامه مردم ظهور می‌کنددر کنار موضوعات دیگر به موضوع جنگاوران و نمایش قهرمانان ملی می‌پردازد. سربینه حمام مهدی قلی بیکنیز نقاشی قهوه‌خانه‌ای با نام شیرویه و سرهنگ دارد که صحنه‌ای از قصه‌ عامیانه‌ای از آذربایجان را نشان می‌دهد. .
هدف پژوهش: هدف از پژوهش حاضر واکاوی تأثیر تاریخ موضوع در طراحی لباس جنگاوران در نقاشی شیرویه و سرهنگ سربینه حمام مهدی قلی بیک مشهد است.
سؤالپژوهش: لباس‌های نبرد در نقاشی شیرویه و سرهنگ سربینه‌ی حمام مهدی قلی بیک تا چه میزان تحت تأثیر ریشه‌ی تاریخی موضوع نقاشی مزبور بوده است؟ فرض بر آن است که هنرمند به‌جای بسنده کردن به مد رایج پوشاک نظامیان عصر خویش تحت تأثیر ریشه‌ی تاریخی موضوع داستان شیرویه و سرهنگ، لباس رزم پیکره‌ها را ترسیم کرده است
روشپژوهش: پژوهش پیش‌رو از حیث ماهیت، بنیادی-کاربردی وروش گردآوری اطلاعات، کتابخانه‌ای- میدانی است.
نتیجه‌گیری: نتایج تحقیق بر این نکته اشاره دارد که هنرمند نقاش قهوه‌خانه‌ای با توجه به ریشه‌ی داستان شیرویه و سرهنگ به نمایش لباس نیرد در سربینه حمام مهدی قلی بیک پرداخته است.
کلیدواژه‌ها: قاجار، نقاشی قهوه‌خانه‌ای، حمام مهدی قلی بیک مشهد، شیرویه و سرهنگ، لباس نبرد.
 
کلیدواژه‌ها

موضوعات


عنوان مقاله English

An Analytical Study of the Warriors’ Attire in the Painting of “Shiruyeh and the Colonel” at the Sarbineh of Mehdi-Qoli Beyk Bathhouse in Mashhad

نویسندگان English

Nafise ZAMANI 1
Mahla Faergh 2
Zahra Barati 3
1 • Coach / Department of KarAfen Faculty of Alzahra Branch
2 Expert/Department of Art. National University of Skill Tehran, Iran.
3 Department of Art. National University of Skill Tehran, Iran.
چکیده English

 Problem Statement
Throughout the political history of states, the warrior class has consistently played a crucial role in the maintenance and protection of governments due to their strength and military prowess. In many instances, insubordination or rebellion by warriors has led directly to the weakening or collapse of ruling powers. The evolution of military weaponry has historically transformed the nature of combat; close-quarters melee battles gradually gave way to large-scale battlefield engagements fought from greater distances. As the dynamics of warfare shifted, so too did the design and functionality of military attire.
During the Qajar period, political transitions brought about substantial cultural transformations, which were reflected in the changing structure of military uniforms. The depiction of battle scenes within the visual arts of the Qajar era—just as in prior historical periods—remained a favored subject. One specific genre that emerged with renewed vigor during this period was coffeehouse painting (naqqashi-ye qahveh-khaneh), a unique form of narrative painting that brought heroic tales and moral allegories into public spaces. This art form, developing especially after the Constitutional Revolution (1906), served as a bridge between fine art and popular culture.
Public venues such as coffeehouses and bathhouses became ideal platforms for showcasing these works. Coffeehouse paintings often depicted stories of epic heroes drawn from religious, national, or regional folklore that deeply resonated with the collective consciousness of the common people. The Mehdi-Qoli Beyk bathhouse in Mashhad is one such location where narrative wall paintings in the coffeehouse style can be found. Among these artworks, the painting titled "Shiruyeh and the Colonel in the Sarbineh" illustrates a popular folktale from Azerbaijan. It portrays Shiruyeh, the heroic protagonist, in combat with two rivals.
The military attire of the characters, along with the depicted combat style, notably diverges from the typical martial aesthetics of the Qajar era. This discrepancy indicates that the artist was not merely imitating the fashions of his contemporary world but was influenced by other historical and artistic factors in the creation of this work.
 Research Objective:
This study aims to analyze the extent to which historical context has influenced the depiction of warriors’ attire in the painting of Shiruyeh and the Colonel at the Sarbineh of Mehdi-Qoli Beyk Bathhouse in Mashhad. The research seeks to explore how the artist’s engagement with the historical roots of the tale shaped his design of the figures' battle garments.
 Research Question:
To what extent do the battle costumes in the painting of Shiruyeh and the Colonel reflect the historical context of the narrative, rather than merely conforming to the prevalent military fashion of the Qajar period?
It is hypothesized that instead of defaulting to the dominant Qajar military attire of his time, the artist deliberately illustrated combat uniforms inspired by the historical setting of the Shiruyeh narrative—possibly influenced by Safavid military aesthetics—in order to achieve greater narrative fidelity.
 Research Methodology:
This study is classified as both fundamental and applied research in nature. The data collection methods employed include both library-based investigation and fieldwork involving direct visual and contextual analysis of the painting within its architectural setting.
 
Conclusion:
The warrior class has consistently functioned as both the strength and the vulnerability of ruling systems throughout history. Their profession demanded specialized clothing designed to offer protection against enemy strikes. In addition to functionality, this attire served as a visual symbol of military identity, distinguishing combatants from other social classes. Consequently, military garb assumed a symbolic structure, and artists often employed such costumes to visually signify warrior figures within pictorial compositions.
Among visual art forms, coffeehouse painting—originating during the Qajar period—is particularly rich in figurative imagery and is well-suited for investigating the connection between martial dress and the broader structure of warfare. Although this genre emerged prominently in Qajar times, its roots stretch back to the Safavid era, particularly to the religious and commercial paintings seen in Armenian merchant districts such as New Julfa in Isfahan. Over time, this genre evolved into a distinct and recognizable strand of Iranian visual culture.
During the Qajar period, socio-political and cultural exchanges between the Iranian middle class and Western societies facilitated the rise of the Constitutional Movement. This socio-political awakening simultaneously provided the necessary cultural backdrop for the formal emergence of coffeehouse painting. Although born in coffeehouses, this genre also found expression in other communal venues such as bathhouses, where the public regularly gathered.
The thematic focus of coffeehouse painting encompasses religious epics, heroic legends, and popular folk stories. The popular segment of this genre derives from local subcultures and regional oral traditions across Iran. One such example is the folk tale of Shiruyeh and the Colonel from Azerbaijan, which was rendered visually in the Sarbineh of the Mehdi-Qoli Beyk bathhouse by a master of the coffeehouse painting tradition.
The research findings demonstrate a significant divergence between the military attire depicted in Shiruyeh and the Colonel and that of Qajar-era soldiers. This contrast is not coincidental; rather, it reflects the artist’s deliberate choice to reflect a different historical context. Given that the story has roots in the Safavid period, it can be inferred that the artist, fully aware of this historical backdrop, opted to depict Safavid-style military uniforms to enhance the authenticity and dramatic impact of the narrative.
This contrasts with most historical visual art, in which artists typically draw upon contemporary fashion trends when designing human figures. In this case, however, the painter consciously moved beyond the sartorial norms of his era. Influenced by the conventions of narrative painting, he dressed his heroic figures in Safavid battle attire, thereby intensifying the viewer's engagement with the epic and emphasizing the historical resonance of the story.
Thus, it can be concluded that in designing the battle costumes for Shiruyeh and the Colonel, the artist intentionally selected Safavid-style clothing as a historically grounded narrative tool. His decision not only enriched the visual representation but also deepened the audience’s emotional and cultural connection with the heroic themes of the story.
Furthermore, the findings of this study suggest that clothing in historical art serves not only as a symbolic marker of social identity but also functions as a practical narrative device. In this painting, the characters’ battle attire symbolizes martial identity; for instance, Shiruyeh’s ornate golden armor conveys his elevated heroic status, while the simpler four-mirror armor (char-ayneh) of the Colonel subtly indicates his inferior rank and power. Simultaneously, the historical costumes act as artistic tools that anchor the narrative in a particular temporal and cultural milieu.
 Keywords: Qajar, Coffeehouse Painting, Mehdi-Qoli Beyk Bathhouse (Mashhad), Shiruyeh and the Colonel, Battle Attire
 

کلیدواژه‌ها English

Qajar, Coffeehouse Painting, Mehdi-Qoli Beyk Bathhouse (Mashhad), Shiruyeh and the Colonel, Battle Attire